Kalamkari a patient art

January 25, 2021

Kalamkari a patient art

Kalamkari designs are drawn generally by freehand using a pen and the filling is accomplished by hand using earthy colours like mustard, indigo, rust, green and black.

Kalam means pen and Kari means craftsmanship. Kalamkari is done with a tamarind pen, using natural dyes.

Kalamakari was born from story-telling. In ancient times, people used to travel from village to village and tell stories. The mainly holy stories were then drawn on fabric. Even today motifs include episodes from the Indian Holy Books, Mahabharata which means War, and Ramayana, which is the tale of Lord Rama and Goddess Sita- a story of self-sacrifice. A short summary of the "Ramayana" is at the end here

During the Mughal era, this art of Kalamkari got its recognition in everyday use. And was used to produce wearable fabrics. Even today the art is used in producing sarees,

Artisans came up with innovative ideas highly influenced by Persian motifs, Hindu mythology and religious symbols, that gave a clear identification note to Kalamkari designs.

Natural dyes used in Kalamkari art are extracted by blending jaggery, iron fillings and water, and used for outlining sketches. Alum is also used for making natural dyes for the Kalamkari fabric and also for treating the fabric. Alum ensures the stability of the colour in the Kalamkari fabric. The fabric has a characteristic shine because it is soaked in resin and cow milk. Different effects on the Kalamkari fabric are achieved by using cow dung, seeds, crushed flowers and different varieties of plants. After every single application of dye on Kalamkari fabric, it needs to be dyed for better results. Kalamkari art, in its recent applications, is seen depicting Buddha and Buddhist art forms. In India, a lot of people are engaged in making handloom sarees and fabric. The art demands an eye for detail and a love for painting.

The slow and patient 23 step process is depicted below

Generally, cotton fabric is used for making Kalamkari; however, silk fabric can also be used.

Types of Kalamkari

There are two identifiable types of Kalamkari: Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam.

In Machilipatnam style, Kalamkari designs are generally printed with hand-carved blocks with intricate details, printed by hand.

Srikalahasti style includes Kalamkari designs inspired from Hindu mythology, that describe the scenes from the epics.

Kalamkari designs also emerged, based on the states where it is created. Gujarat and Andhra Pradesh are two prime states where two different types of Kalamkari designs are practised.

Andhra Pradesh borrows its Kalamkari design inspiration from forts, palaces and temples, along with animal and bird motifs; while Gujarat borrows its Kalamkari design inspiration from mythological characters.

Due to the vibrant kalamkari designs and the use of natural dyes, kalamkari is used as a symbol of a region’s heritage. It is also prized among admirers of slow clothes and artists produce furnishings and fabrics that are made out of Kalamkari prints. Leading fashion houses experiment with the use of this unique fabric

The Power of the Ramayana

The Ramayana is often a theme in Gujarati Kalamkari. A good Princess Sita marries a great Prince Rama. Sadly they are exiled to the forest after their wedding due to a misunderstanding between the Queens. Prince Laxman, the brother of Rama also accompanies them to the forest. During the exile of fourteen years, they face many challenges, and Goddess Sita is kidnapped by Ravana. She is rescued with the help of monkey god Hanuman. The end of their exile is celebrated as the festival of Lights, Diwali. Tragically later, Goddess Sita is exiled by herself as the kidnapping has tainted her honour. She lives in the forest where she gives birth to twins Lav and Kush. She never sees Lord Rama again.

In the Ramayana, "Duty" is emphasised. So is "Self Sacrifice". Love of a Brother and Hanumanji's devotion are lessons.

A Madhubani painting shown below is in the collection of the Ian Potter Museum Melbourne with Goddess Sita, Lord Rama, Laxman ji and Hanuman ji