The Sanganer Block Print

Sanganer block prints are unique. Delicate mainly floral patterns in bright colours are chiefly printed on white backgrounds

(Images from Balmain)

Where is Sanganer?

Sanganer is a town situated in Jaipur district, Rajasthan, 16 km south of state capital Jaipur. It is famous for textile printing, handmade paper and Jain temples. 

Invention (The Journey of Block printing to Sanganer)

 

The Paithapur families of Gujarat passed the art of block printing from generation to generation, forming the trader or saudagiri print, where ‘sauda’ is derived from the Persian word for ‘trade.’

 

The Kutch district in Gujarat was, and still is, a place where block printing thrives.

Pre-Mughal block printed ceremonial banner from Gujarat, 1340

Mughal block printed and resist dyed interior tent panel from India, late 17th century or early 18th century

When the art of block printing migrated from Gujarat to Rajasthan and eventually to West Bengal, a wider variety of traditional intricate motifs and colours were introduced.The Indian textile art of block printing had a tremendous impact on 19th century patterns and prints in Britain. British designers of the 1800s found inspiration in Indian floral motifs, of which the Paisley pattern remains commonly loved.

 

Block printing of Gujarat and Rajasthan can sometimes be differentiated by the colours that they use. Gujarati block prints are captivating with their bright colours sometimes printed on a light background, whilst Rajasthani block prints, particularly from Bagru, are often printed on red and black backgrounds. Each hand printed garment created is unique.

You might be surprised to know that water has a significant impact on the results produced by printing techniques 

For instance, the use of water in Sanganeri prints causes darker tone effects to appear on the fabric.

The history of the Sanganeri prints is around 500 years old. The origin of these prints came around during the 16th and 17th centuries. And by the end of the 18th century, Sanganer was a well-established production house of these block printing textiles.

The Sanganeri prints are widely known for their delicate and fine designs. Originally, Sanganeri prints used to be created on white and off white fabrics. However, now other fabrics are also being used as bases.

The prints of Sanganer often have delicate floral patterns. These flower motifs are generally known as ‘Buttas’. Finer lines and more sober colours are used in Sanganer motifs.

The elaborate detailing of the flowers and the petals is exclusive to  Sanganeri prints.Sanganer is famous for its Calico prints (recognised by their dual colour prints done repeatedly in diagonal rows) and Doo Rookhi prints (that come on both sides of the fabric).

The labour-intensive technique of block printing is sure to capture your attention “From wood carving a block to transferring an impression onto the textile surface, it is the human hand that creates tiny variations and imperfections that are so charming and unique to this process”

 

Industry

Block printing villages are known for their rhythmic ‘knocking’ sound of the block printer hitting the woodblock to secure the pattern. The sound echoes through the village and reminds us of the artisans at work.

Block Printing involves a culture built around a community, in which families and neighbours are working and living in tandem, often across religions, tribes and generations, from a shared history. It is not an easy life. But it is a necessary one.  It may be that one doesn’t so much see craft, but actually, feels it

The cogs of the community are still chhipas (printers), rangrez (dyers) and dhobi (washers), and each family performs just one function in the manufacturing process.

It starts with a 

A print starts with the design, drawn on paper and carved by hand onto the wooden blocks which are approximately 18-24cm. The physical block is the design for a single repeat, which is then stamped in rows across the fabric. Each element of the design is carved into a separate block. Block carving in itself is a precise art requiring years of apprenticeship and done entirely by hand. Astonishing muscle memory is needed to sit cross-legged for hours while chiseling a complicated paisley design onto the block

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Colour Mixing-Preparing the Dyes

Once the blocks are carved, the master printer prepares the colours which will be used in printing.  The colours are then poured into wooden trays. Eco-friendly colours are used in Sanganer printing.

Demanding with Patience

Each colour pattern is stamped individually onto the fabric; the process takes time and skill, as the pattern must be stamped repeatedly across the fabric, colour by colour. The subtle gaps and overlaps are a beautiful reminder of the handwork and give block printing its iconic look. Enterprises range from mum-and-dad workshops with just a couple of printing tables inside their home, to businesses with as many as 50 tables. The printing master must carefully align each block as she/he prints, using the ‘guide’ carved on the left edge of the block as his marker.  Each printer has a slightly different style which is considered his ‘signature’ look.  The printing master must then follow the same pattern of aligning the blocks with each colour layered on to the design.

The Finale and Finish  

Fabrics are boiled in a copper cauldron, which makes the natural dyes colour-fast and then washed. In the use of natural inks, this is repeated four or five times. The water can be reused for agriculture highlighting the sustainability of the process 

In Balmain 

Some Sanganer Stories

The artistic inspiration for the block printing craft comes from the vision of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II in 1728. Paper making was also introduced to the town

Sanganer is a famous pilgrimage town for the Jain community because of a very ancient Jain temple made of red stone. The ancient Shri Digamber Jain temple of Sanganer is 16 km from Jaipur. In this temple the principal deity is the Lord Adinath (Rishabh Dev);

What is Jainism?

 

The main religious premises of the ancient Jain dharma are 

ahiṃsā (Non-violence), 

 

anekāntavāda (Truth has many sides), 

 

aparigraha (Detachment ) 

 

and asceticism (Abstinence)  

 

These principles have affected Jain culture in many ways, such as leading to a predominantly vegetarian lifestyle. The Hand below symbolises non-violence. In this tradition, great pains are taken not to harm bacteria

 

 

An old photograph of a Marwari couple. She may be wearing a block print skirt

Credits: Adventure.com, NY times, Meher Shaw, Strands of Silk, Vogue india